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Interview with Hiram Green: the essence of natural perfumery
Based in the Netherlands, Hiram Green has carved out a unique place for himself in the world of perfumery by choosing to create exclusively with natural materials, an approach that runs counter to current perfumery trends. This choice, far from being a marketing ploy, reflects a deliberate life philosophy. His approach to creation is part of a lifestyle that is in harmony with his personal beliefs, at once thoughtful, committed, and deeply inspiring.
A lover of flowers—his favorite materials—he creates fragrances of great sensitivity, while also taking on a significant technical challenge. While synthetic aromatic molecules allow for the reproduction of a precise and controlled effect, natural extracts require true finesse of composition. Each plant, each flower contains hundreds of odorous molecules that must be learned to coexist. A rose, for example, contains a diversity of compounds that must be balanced with the other ingredients of the perfume to achieve true harmony. A master's work, patient and demanding. Added to this is the scarcity and cost of raw materials, challenges that few perfumers face in the industry, where synthetic molecules dominate.
Hiram Green's approach traces a rare path: artisanal, demanding, sincere.
We warmly thank Hiram for welcoming us into his studio and for opening the doors to his world. It's a true joy to be able to discover his work up close and share a little of the magic that inhabits his creations with the members of Parfens.
We talked about perfume, inspiration and nature.
My first encounter with perfume dates back to my childhood, smelling the one my mother wore for special occasions. I imagine it's a common first encounter for many people.
I've always been interested in perfume, but I never considered making it a career. It's a field I stumbled into somewhat by chance. After studying fine arts, I started working in a perfume boutique. My interest grew over the years, until I decided to teach myself how to create perfumes. A few years later, I founded my own brand. That was 12 years ago!
It was initially a personal decision. Although I love perfume, many synthetic fragrances give me headaches. When I started out, natural fragrances were almost nonexistent on the market. Many in the industry told me that creating a sophisticated natural fragrance was impossible. Not one to back down from a challenge, I wanted to prove them wrong. Today, the issue of sustainability is also a major reason why I am pursuing this path.
I only know this method, so I don't really have a point of comparison. But I can say that natural materials are very expensive. Most floral absolutes exceed
€15 per kilo. Perfumers who work with synthetics do not face the same financial constraints.
In addition to the sustainable aspect, natural materials offer an olfactory richness and complexity that is impossible to reproduce synthetically.
It's an exciting time for perfumery. The industry has changed enormously since I started. Back then, artisanal perfumery was very rare. Today, it's much more prevalent. There are many independent brands, and I sincerely hope this trend continues to grow.
It can come from anywhere: a song, a painting, a trip... It's very spontaneous.
It can be either, or a mixture of both.
Tryst is a reinterpretation of one of my very first fragrances, Dilettante, which is no longer available. Revisiting one of my old formulas allowed me to see how I could improve it. In the end, I didn't change much. Tryst celebrates all the facets of the orange tree: orange, petitgrain, neroli, and orange blossom. It's a joyful, fresh, and floral fragrance.
You know, a mother can't say which of her children she prefers...
But if I had to choose the one I'm most proud of, it would be Hyde. He won the Art and Olfaction Award for Artisan Perfumery in 2019.
I'm always working on new fragrances. I can't say too much yet, but I can reveal that it will be big and floral.
And now, just for fun!
A smell that makes you feel at home? A home-cooked meal.
The worst scented gift ever received? A set of Axe deodorant and shower gel.
You're stuck on a desert island. Only one flavor to take with you? Hyde. I love this scent, it's perfect for warm, sunny days.
An ingredient (in cooking or perfume) that you always manage to slip into your creations? Rose and jasmine – they go with everything.
The most unexpected and beautiful scent you've ever smelled—and where? Hmm ...
A trend you'd like to see quietly disappear? The perfumes are too sweet, with scents of pastries.
If in 100 years we were to remember only one thing about you? That I was a pioneer of natural perfumery. My first reaction would be to say, “He was a really nice guy.” Maybe: a nice guy who was a pioneer of natural perfumery. I guess that's two things.
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